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It promised to be a hot day. I left the campsite just before 8 o’clock so I could get breakfast. I ate at a little café called “Apples”, porridge with raspberries and honeycomb, a Matcha latte and poached eggs and bacon on sourdough. It was fantastic and probably the last hot food I’d eat that day as I was walking on the Southern Uplands Way and expected to wild camp before arriving at any towns or villages.

The walk began along the beautiful river Tweed, along a disused railway line and then back to the river again before beginning to climb. Stopping briefly, I checked my mobile signal and was able to give Sophie, my eldest daughter, a ring. Excellent news, she was going to meet me at Fort Augustus in 10 or so days time. We would walk together to Inverness. Something else to look forward to.

At the top of the first big hill, there were good views back over Galashiels and forward to the much larger climb that lay ahead. I set off again, walking easily, and in an hour or so arrived at Yair bridge where I crossed the river Tweed again. I then climbed up for over a mile through forestry, providing welcome shade from the sun, emerging into high winds at a junction high up in the hills. It was about half past one so I ate my lunch and then continued up again to the highlight of the whole day, the three cairns known as the Three Brethren, where there were outstanding views, including 20 miles back to the Eildons I had climbed the day before. 

Nobody is very clear why the stones are referred to as the Three Brethren, certainly nothing to do with Harry Potter and the three brothers. A woman I met on the trail said that some thought they were erected by three landowners to mark the edge of their respective territories. An extreme way of proving your entitlement to land I’d have thought.

I then walked along the ridge as some cloud descended and then into Traquair forest in the sun again. Finally, I went down on a steep path much frequented by mountain bikers and arrived at Traquair. There were midges in the forestry despite its height and the overnight forecast was for heavy rain continuing into the morning. I didn’t want to wake up in a raincloud so walked on to the campsite by the Tweed at Innerleithen. I met a fellow hiker at the campsite walking the entirety of the Southern Uplands Way. He provided more stories of midges and advice to stay in a bothy, given the opportunity, where midges seldom enter.

I walked into Innerleithen for a superb dinner at the Traquair Arms. Beetroot hummus with feta on sourdough to start, followed by Brazilian fish stew and then raspberry Pavlova. I walked back very content and slept the way a man who walked 20 miles and had a good dinner should sleep.

Day Summary

Great news from Sophie. Another great walk, a great dinner, a great day.