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Well, here we are. This should be my last day of walking on my very long walk. I had about 19 miles to go along the coast line taking the scenic route to the end. This is what I wanted, a relatively straightforward last day. I hoped to arrive by late afternoon or early evening.

This was going to be a day of “last times”. The last time I’d wake and check the weather forecast (not very good, it was raining on my tent), the last time I’d have to dry my tent, think about walking and so on.

Putting those thoughts aside, I checked my leg which was not too bad, popped some pills just to be on the safe side, a pork pie for breakfast (which seemed fitting) and packed up.

I set off at seven and was delighted to see that the sun had come out against expectations. I walked past a golf club and down onto the beach, walking 2 miles or so in the sunshine to a river. I took my boots off, walked across and laid my tent out on the sand to dry. I then continued on the beach all the way to Keiss. It was a lovely walk and also avoided heading up and down soft sand on very steep sand dunes for four miles. A very good start to my last day.

Keiss is a tiny place with a pub and not much else. I arrived at 9:30 and sat on a bench (sponsored by The Crown who filmed around here) eating a second breakfast, looking across the bay where I’d walked earlier that morning. 13 miles left. Off I went again.

I walked past Keiss Harbour and it’s old castle, in its own way as good as Dunroamin. There followed a prolonged section walking between a fence and the cliff top on a narrow path and long grass. Emerging, finally, I sat on a rock and watch the sea birds on the rock shelf below.

Progress was steady, if not spectacular, but that was OK. The important thing was not to dwell on the end and enjoy the walk. Beautiful rock formations and shelves were ever present, but today I had castles too. Keiss Castle and then the curious Mervyn’s Tower made from the stones excavated from Nybster Broch were followed by my favourite of the lot, Bucholie Castle, teetering on the very edge of a sea stack.

As I passed Skirza Head I was joined by an unexpected travelling companion, a very excitable and enthusiastic young border collie who seemed to think I was taking him for a walk. He jumped in the bogs, he walked to the very edge of the cliffs to bark at the gulls and he stayed with me for 3-4 miles. He was a lovely dog but I was relieved when he turned back for home. I’m not sure how I’d have explained him arriving at John O’Groats.

With about 5 miles to go I reached the top of a hill and was rewarded with one of the best views I had seen in 60 days walking, Duncansby stacks. In the sunshine they were beautiful but I imagined what sailors would have felt in those terrible waters at night if it was blowing a gale. 

I lay on the heather for half an hour or so then made my way down the hill with views of John O’Groats and Orkney in the distance. No more than 45 minutes later I had only a mile or so to walk. I said hello and goodbye to my last sheep and walked along the quiet path until the John O’Groats sign post came into view. I quickened my pace and strode purposefully towards it, just in case anyone was watching. They were not. No fanfares, no fireworks, I think I preferred it that way. I said hello and chatted to two cyclists who’d also come from Land’s End and one of them took my picture. We congratulated each other and I set off to book into the campsite and pitch my tent. 

I had a nice pint at the Last Pub, caught the fish and chip shop before they closed at 7pm and had a lovely chat with Helen on the phone. John O’Groats is a proper place, an old fishing village, but caters to day trippers. Everything was shut but that was OK as I was done in. I lay in my tent thinking about where I had walked, the best bits, the hard bits, the people I missed and the encouragement I’d had from friends and family. My very long walk had been an extraordinary experience, very rewarding and very full on. It’s probably too soon to reflect. I plan one more blog in a few day’s time. I’ll publish on Sunday 6 July. 

Day Summary

A day of “last things”, castles and sea stacks. I made it to the end with a canine friend.