I set off at 6:30. After about 10 minutes walking I arrived at Frocester Hill. It was overcast but I could still see for miles back to the Tyndale Monument and across the Severn estuary, and very far in the distance the Black Mountains and the Brecon Beacons. This was no doubt where the woman from the evening before must’ve meant I should camp. If I’d kept going another 10 minutes, I would have found it. If only she had told me it was 3 miles away rather than two or I had asked for clearer directions. I had a good night in the wood, but this would’ve been better. Local knowledge is helpful while camping.
I then walked through Stanley Wood, which reminded me of a squirrel named Stanley who my dad befriended who would’ve liked it here. A little later I headed off the path towards Kings Stanley in the hope of some breakfast. I was making a beeline for Dangerfields bakery, opening at 8 o’clock in 20 minutes time.
Dangerfields turned out to be a commercial affair and didn’t have a shopfront so I backtracked to the local co-op for a strawberry smoothie, chicken and bacon sandwich and lardy cake. My uncle David first gave me lardy cake when I was small and I still remember the occasion more than 50 years later. Super sweet, packed with calories. Perfect.
15 minutes later, I was back on the Cotswold’s Way, heading off to Painswick. Going up the hill I met a woman who told me that she had walked El Camino. We had a nice chat and she wished me buen Camino, for luck. Then stopping at the top of the hill for a rest as the sun came out I had a long chat about walking with a young man who had two lovely dogs and a baby and a cheerful guy who was walking Offa’s Dyke in sections. One of the best things about the walk is the people that you meet.
At Painswick, a very pretty Cotswold town, I met Libby, another Camino walker, who gave me £10 for Mind and recommended the Arts Cafe for some lunch. Another good local tip. At 12:30 I set off for Birdlip. The walk up to the hills out of Painswick was gentle for once. I passed Cat Brain quarry, another candidate for my best names list. The walking was then as easy as at any time since I left Land’s End, and before I knew it I was no more than 2 miles from Birdlip. I was catching up fast without having to push it very much, a best case scenario. I fantasised about getting ahead of schedule and gaining an extra rest day at Hebden Bridge where I could do some much needed to work to spruce up my website. I had walked 15 miles already today. It was 1:30, my feet felt fabulous and I had been really relaxed. This was an easy day’s walking. But if every day was like this, I’d have hours to enjoy myself, rest more often and generally muck about, one of my super powers. Days like this, 20 miles a day seemed a doddle.
The walk to Birdlip was uneventful, mainly walking through tree paths cushioned by leaves. I arrived at the Royal George in Birdlip at 3 o’clock, earlier than I’d anticipated. This would be my main stop for the day I’d get my blog published and have a good meal.
I had a lovely meal at the King George, which is a large inn that caters really well for walkers. I set off again at 4:45 towards Winchcombe.
Feeling vigourous, I bowled along the route stopping to take a photo from the top of Birdlip Hill, fortuitous in one way as I’d missed my turning, I wouldn’t have seen the view otherwise. Then again I had descended for a quite a while down deep steps which I had to climb back up again. Telling myself to pay attention, I found the right path and emerged onto green fields, a perfect wild camping spot in case I was ever in these parts again. Just to rub it in, I walked on another half mile and got a far superior view to the one I’ve obtained by being a fuck wit.
For the first time in days, the Cotswold Way forced me down a major A road to an even busier junction. Thanks to a white van man who slowed to allow me to cross (never speak ill of white van men), I eventually accomplished it. Happily, just a few minutes later, the road noise had gone away and I was once again given beautiful views over Gloucestershire.
An hour later I climbed up Leckhampton Hill, where I hoped I’d be able to camp for the night. I wasn’t disappointed. The views from the top of the hill over Cheltenham and Gloucestershire were exhilarating in the early evening sunshine. This is what I love most about wild camping. A fabulous finish to a fantastic day.
Day Summary:
Feet in fine fettle, bowling along.
Discover more from Henry’s very long walk
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In Scotland this week, I have just finished reading ‘Walking with Plato’ which is by a writer Gary Hayden and is a philosophical account of his walk from JoG to Lands End. Someone gave me the book a couple of years ago.
It is interesting reading his reverse account to yours. He starts off finding it arduous and often tedious then grows to absolutely love each day and describes well how he starts to feel a part of nature rather than an admirer of it.
You do more proper pub stops which I think is essential ! Do read it if you haven’t already.