I had a good sleep at the campsite , the same one that my sister Jo used to stay at with her partner Peelie, who very sadly died last year, when they used to stay in Malham. It was a lovely sunny day with blue sky and a few white clouds and I set off for Malham Cove. I think this is one of the most beautiful places in the world. I’m going to let the pictures speak for themselves.
I lingered happily for quite a while at Malham Cove, stopping in various places to enjoy the views and take photos. There were a few walkers about. Yesterday, a Sunday, there would’ve been many more in this beautiful weather. I walked on up to Malham Tarn. A number of circular dry stone walls had been built to protect the trees from deer nibbling so they could establish themselves and then through pastures to the bottom of the climb up to Fountains Fell. Last time I was here it had been in mist. Provided I made it to the top I should get fabulous views this time. The climb was benign for the Pennine way, a gradual rise around the side of the mountain. The views were great. I particularly liked three Stone Cairns built in a row as well as the view of Pen Y Ghent, only a couple of miles away now.
After a chat with a friendly mountain biker, I walked the remaining mile or so to Pen Y Ghent. It was a short but steep climb with some scrambling bits. Walking down from the summit I had a choice to make. Should I walk for 3 miles to Horton for food or should I try a shortcut and walk straight through to Hawes, another 10 miles along. When I arrived at the turn off the path could barely be distinguished so I opted for the latter alternative arriving at 3:45. Unfortunately, both pubs were shut and Horton has no shops. So I sat outside the Crown Inn hoping it would open at five as Google said it would. I now had a mobile signal. Always helpful.
I wasn’t too concerned about the wait. It was a nice sunny day and I could edit my blog for a while. I’d have to do more walking after the pub though to get as close to Hawes as possible. I needed to be in Keld the next day by 5 to meet Joe and Tom. It was much too far to walk in one day from Horton. The new plan was to walk late into the evening, which would be pleasant on a sunny day, wild camp and walk into Hawes for breakfast at 8:30 when the first café opened.
And so began one of the most enjoyable couple of hours I’d spent on the whole walk. The walking was easy over fields and pastures made dark green by the evening sun with clear views to my east and various rocky outcrops and hillocks to my right. I saw hares and thousands of sheep with their newborn lambs gambolling about the place, all having a lovely time. And then I walked over moors with views of Pen Y Ghent that I’d climbed earlier in the day.
At 9pm, not tired, but aware that it would be dark within an hour, I pitched my tent and reflected on a perfect day.
Day Summary
Malham was magnificent. Looking forward to seeing Joe and Tom.
Discover more from Henry’s very long walk
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
How absolutely stunning that walk looks. I really think you should rate your days. From a selfish perspective, give them an overall star rating based on lovely scenery / relatively good paths etc. That way we can know which of your ‘days’ we’d like to do.
I could give it a go but it’s very difficult. For example Black Hill to Hebden is an amazing walk, but not in the wet. Cross fell was amazing this walk, but I was incredibly lucky. It is normally long, arduous, wet, windy and seems to go on for ever! I’d hesitate to recommend it to anybody who wasn’t battle hardened.