Day 12: Wellhead to Treborough Woods

Coleridge country

I left the charming camping site at 7:30. There had been some rain overnight so I would have to find a windy place to dry my tent along the route. Leaving the site, I climbed a steep hill and before long reached my turn off onto the moors.

It was a pleasant but overcast day with more rain forecast later. I passed several wild ponies and made my way at a sedate pace along feet friendly grassy paths. Although I couldn’t see far in the distance the flora on the moors was beautiful, greens purples and whites everywhere I looked. The path became difficult to distinguish and a little muddy in places.I’d imagine it can get very wet indeed up here with even a normal amount of rainfall.

I walked below the ridge line of Dunkery Beacon, shrouded in mist. I took the low route because of the cloud. There was no value in the climb or the extra yards. 

Overcast but still inspiring

I then walked down from the Moors having one-sided conversations with the occasional sheep before the path headed through Langham woods, up a steep hill and down again, to Wheddon Cross and the very appropriately named Rest and Be Thankful Inn. I did and I was. Turkey and ham pie followed by bread and butter pudding disappeared more quickly than is proper.

The sheep didn’t want to talk

At the Inn I plotted my route for the rest of the day and the next. I would soon join the Coleridge Way at Cutcombe. The poet, I’m told, often walked 30 miles in one go. I didn’t plan to walk that far. I’d get going and see how far my legs wanted to take me along the route.

When I left the weather had improved with blue sky and only a few dark clouds lurking here and there. I set off along the delightfully named Popery Lane. I was about a 15 minute walk from joining the Coleridge Way.

Bread and butter pudding

The Coleridge Way took me up gentle grassy slopes festooned with buttercups and dandelions. The weather was still looking a little bit iffy. I spotted some cows in a field, half standing up half lying down. My dad always said cows lie down when they expect it to rain. The cows were undecided and so was I.

The Sun then came out properly, and as I continued through the lush green fields, I could see the outline of the Quantock hills in front of me. All being well I’d be crossing them tomorrow. I stopped,took the rain cover off my backpack, dried my tent in the sun and the wind and clipped my solar charger onto the pack. I headed off again, hoping that I hadn’t tempted fate.

Wales from the Exmoor Hills

Well, I tempted fate. As I walked down the hill into Luxborough, it started to spit with rain. I thought I could make it in time. I would have if the pub,the Royal Oak, had been at the bottom of the hill. It was not. Suddenly the rain was coming down like rods. I scrambled into some kind of cover,took off the solar charger put on my cagoule and the rain cover for my pack. I then sheltered under a hedge for five minutes or so as the conflagration continued. As it eased, I walked further into the village and asked a small boy for directions. Kind lad that he was he accompanied me to the pub. I went in, dried off a bit, had a pint and chatted to Ali and Amanda,old friends just arrived to do some walking with their dogs Nell and Beau.

After half an hour or so, the sunshine returned so I rejoined the Coleridge Way on the path to Roadwater. After a walk up the hill through narrow paths now wet with the rain, I made good progress, watching the water vapour rising out of the newly washed forest. From high ground I could  see past Minehead all the way to Wales.

A little further on I descended into Treborough Woods, cool and peaceful and full of old mature trees. It seemed like a good place to camp. 

Camping in Treborough Woods

Day Summary:

Walked into the wilds, coped with the rain, talked to the animals.


Discover more from Henry’s very long walk

Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.

This Post Has 2 Comments

  1. Rachel

    Are you finding the paths in good order or are they variously blocked, unclear, poorly signed etc? I remember Devon and Cornwall was like that if you weren’t on the coastal path.

    1. Henry

      I’ve found that local footpaths are very variable. Paths on the limestone link and Somerset levels very tricky. Anything in Gloucestershire very well maintained.

Leave a Reply