
It was a shorter day’s walking today because Helen had agreed to pick me up between four thirty and five . Despite making progress yesterday I reckoned I had about 25 miles to walk. I left at 6 am, having packed up my things in a record time, managed to navigate across several fields, the way markers on the limestone link sporadic at best and walked down a grassy slope bathed in very early morning sunshine to Clutton.
And so I walked on through narrow country lanes, across watermeadows, through tiny pathways and woods and once, a very lovely back garden. I was pleased with my progress.

Just before nine, I stopped for some water and consulted my map as I tend to do. Looking at the map, I could see that in a few miles time I had an opportunity. If I cut up to Bath and walked directly through it, I might cut off several miles of walking. The limestone link is very pleasant (for the last hour I had been accompanied most of the way by the river Cam) butI was sure the pathways up to Bath would be lovely too. I’d never been to Bath, so that clinched the deal.

Arriving at the pretty village of Combe Hay, at 10:30 I turned towards Bath. I still had about 12 miles to go to get to Hinton. I also knew I’d get good food in Bath. No messing about today.
Walking into Bath I toyed with the idea of eating at the Royal Hotel. However, it’s doubtful they’d have let me in. Instead, I found a lovely little café called Pastel where I ate smashed avocado and sun-dried tomatoes on sourdough. Looking at my map and plotting a route to Cold Ashton on the Cotswold Way, I realised I still had 10 miles to go, so I didn’t linger. I rang Helen to confirm a rendezvous at the Black Bull Inn in Hinton between four thirty and five and set off up the hill.

I managed the hill pretty well, which made me feel good assuming there’d be some downhill walking once I got to the top. I didn’t see much of Bath, but what I did see was great.

Leaving Bath, I could soon see the rolling green Cotswold Hills to my right. I had worked out a route avoiding roads which was fairly direct all the way to Cold Ashton. I ‘d then have 3 miles or so to go on the Cotswold way proper.
Climbing up a pretty stiff hill, I arrived at the very pretty church of Saint Mary’s. Someone had thoughtfully set up a chair and a table in the graveyard so I sat there to drink some water. It looked to me as if there was more of this hill to come, and no doubt others, but I was feeling good. I had an outside chance of having a pint at the black bull before Helen arrived at 4:30. That said I always underestimate how long it will take me to get from A to B.

I wondered on across the green fields, spying cows galore letting my mind wander. Big mistake! I followed a track which turned in the right direction and found myself on a path that was extremely overgrown. I persevered but walking became even more difficult. Zooming out on my map I realised I turned perhaps 50 metres later than I should have. So I had to turn back up the hill and was very pleased to find a much easier way forward. 20 minutes down the drain though, equivalent to not far short of a mile.

I soldiered on, now feeling a bit weary and climbed the steep grassy slope that led to Cold Ashton, a tiny hamlet without a pub, but very pretty. It was 4:15 and I still had three and a bit miles to go. No way, I was going to manage that by five. I called Helen who didn’t answer, presumably because she was driving, left a message and texted to say that I would stop here and could she drive the extra 3 1/2 miles please. I took my boots off, sat on the bench and relaxed. I’d covered 24 miles in nine hours of walking with only half an hour break. And I’d enjoyed the day. I felt quite chuffed with myself. I then got a text from Helen, “you are so irritating”. Then she sent the same text again, just to make sure I was paying attention.

During my rest day, I’m going to revisit my distance calculations on my schedule. I keep walking the miles I estimated, but the distance from point to point always seems to be three or 4 miles further than I thought. Thank God I took the shortcut through Bath
Helen duly arrived, happily less irritated,and we drove off to our hotel, pizza and a few drinks.

Day summary:
A shortcut along the Limestone Link, my first visit to Bath, the Cotswolds have arrived and so has Helen.
Discover more from Henry’s very long walk
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