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I woke up, warm and dry, after a super sleep of about nine hours, tent dry with white clouds and blue sky. Today I was headed to the beautiful Malham. I thought I would probably walk past the halfway point in my walk as well.

I walked up a short but steep hill out of Ponden and then the longer climb out onto the moors. The sun was out, highlighting all the colours of the heather. There were views in all directions, distant moors and fields, cross-crossed by dry stone walls. I stopped at the top to take it all in but didn’t stop long as it was windy and a little cold. I headed on down the moor to Ickornshaw, a great Yorkshire name.

On the way down, I met a guy coming up the hill who had the look of a long distance walker, towel hanging off the back of his pack drying, silly hat etc. He turned out to be walking from John O’Groats to Lands End. This was his 30th day walking, the same as me. We were meeting at exactly the halfway point of each of our walks. We chatted for quite a while talking about what was to come for each of us, route options and wild camping spots and then off we headed towards Hebden Bridge and  Malham respectively. 15 minutes later I saw my first hare hopping about near a farmyard. I took the hare to be a good omen for the day.

Going down the hill I met a local who recommended the Hare and Hounds at Lothersdale. I arrived just before 12 o’clock for roast lamb and all the trimmings. I do like Sundays. The people in the Hare and Hounds were top class as was their WiFi. I ate very well, caught up with my friend Andrew on WhatsApp and updated my blog. Leaving the pub at 1:30 as the sun re-emerged I headed off again, with quite a few miles still to walk.

I walked up the long climb to Pinshaw Beacon in light rain, wind and sunny interludes. At the top there was a notice remembering Robert Wilson who had died when snow bound in 1805. He was one of three men responsible for living by the beacon and lighting it in case of emergency during the Napoleonic era. Walking down from the beacon I walked across Clogger Lane, another great place name and onwards towards Thornton in Craven, a small village with some pretty houses.

I pressed on eventually arriving in Gargrave about 6pm sadly too late for their excellent tea rooms and then towards Malham. 

The walk from Gargrave to Malham is particularly nice, mainly along the river. I enjoyed my evening walk arriving at 8 o’clock, pitched my tent at the campsite and had a quick drink at the pub. Unfortunately, I was too late for food so made do with 3 packets of crisps instead. Nutrition is important!

Day Summary

A stunning long walk. Roast lamb with mint sauce. Long live Walker’s crisps.