It had been a wet and stormy night and it was a similar morning but breakfast in Hawes was only 2 to 3 hours away so I set off in good cheer. The paths were good, but there was water everywhere. One night of heavy rain can turn a path into a stream and a stream into a river in these parts.
I arrived in Hawes just after 9 o’clock. I walked past the Wesleydale cheese making factory and into the Wesleydale Pantry for breakfast. This was a super place. Very hungry as always I had a full English with a tea cake and Wesleydale cheese. It had to be done.
The weather was brightening now, although there were still showers about and I headed off, having bought provisions (pork pies and Yorkie bars) for the main walk of the day, up and down Great Shunner Fell. Walking over the bridge out of Hawes, the river was a torrent. Most of it had fallen on me that morning.
The Walk took me up to a summit and then climbed again across innumerable flagstones and several false summits until eventually, after about 5 miles, arriving at the top. I enjoyed the walk, but the forecast light showers were not so light on top of the fells and there was wind again, lots of it. There followed a long descent to Thwaite, a pretty village where everything was shut.
At Thwaite I decided to take the short route to Keld by road as it was a little misty and the high and spectacular way would’ve taken me a couple of hours. I didn’t want to be late for the boys’ arrival, and I fancied a pint at Keld Lodge. In Keld I met several coast to coasters, drying out, but happy after their walk to Nine Standards Rigg. Keld is where the Pennine Way meets the Coast to Coast walk.
At 5:30, Joe and Tom arrived. All very hungry we set off immediately to walk the 5 miles to Tan Hill Inn, the highest pub in England at 1720 feet. We bowled along and arrived in no time. I’m not going to be able to keep up with these boys.
Tan Hill Inn is a marvellous place and was nearly full, amazing for such a remote location on a Tuesday night. We feasted on hotpot, steak and ale pie, mini Yorkshire puddings and chicken wings. I finished it all off with a banging bread and butter pudding and headed off to my tent pitched next to the pub. An excellent end to a day that started under a cloud, literally.
Day Summary
Lots of good food, lots of water. Lots of great walking. The highest pub in England.
Discover more from Henry’s very long walk
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