Day 34: Middleton in Teesdale to Hi-Cup Nick

Joe cooling his feet

The day began in true Bill and Ted fashion when Jo was seen running in a startled manner from the toilet block, apparently spooked by a hand dryer. He claims that he was overcome by a feeling of being watched. Quite how a hand dryer would do that remains unclear.

The forecast was for rain in the morning and then the day brightening with sun from late afternoon into the evening. On that basis we took our time and had a leisurely breakfast before starting off. I had really been looking forward to this day, my favourite on the Pennine Way. I thought the boys would enjoy it too.

Breakfast in Middleton

The sun came out to play early on the way up to Low Force. We stopped by a field and the boys, hearing distant bleating, ran off to successfully rescue two lambs trapped on the wrong side of a fence. Perhaps I imagined it but the sheep and lambs seemed unusually curious and friendly in our presence for the rest of the day. 

Curious sheep

Low force waterfall was amazing but nothing compared to the power and size of High Force. I managed to photo an organised group jumping into the water below Low Force. Nobody was jumping or swimming anywhere near high force.

Leaping into Low Force
High Force

After a quick lunch at the High Force Hotel we continued on to Cauldron Snout. The weather was lovely now and the walk along the riverbank was wonderful. We stopped to cool our feet in the river. No-one was crazy enough to swim though. The water was icy.

Nearing Cauldron Snout

We eventually arrived at Cauldron Snout about 6 o’clock after clambering across long sections of large boulders. The boys loved Cauldron Snout and the climb up the side of the waterfall to regain the path. I enjoyed it too but was noticeably slower along the scrambly bits. 

Cauldron Snout

Joe commented that the whole day had been a geographer’s paradise, waterfalls, meandering rivers and evidence of glaciation everywhere you looked. He hadn’t seen Hi-Cup Nick yet, which was the fourth wonder I’d promised the boys for the day.

There were still 5 miles or so to walk to Hi-Cup Nick though and as we climbed a long hill with multiple false summits an unforecast spell of rainy weather descended. It was late, we were hungry and I could tell the boys, while uncomplaining, had had enough. 

Hi-Cup Nick in the rain

Eventually we arrived at the top and walked across the moor as the wonder that is Hi-Cup Nick slowly emerged. On a sunny day this is a glorious moment, the perfect v-shaped valley with a river running through it is 300 metres below the point where the sheer cliffs begin by the edge we were approaching. There was no sun but it was still wondrous. However, it was also cold so we found a spot away from the edge to pitch our tents and I made 3 Firepot meals which warmed and cheered us up in equal part. Even better, Tom gave me a spare, dry pair of socks. 

Hi-Cup Nick from my walk in 2021

Day Summary:

The 4 wonders of the walk. Geography lessons. Befriending the sheep.


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