Blog

I woke early about 5 o’clock. It was a beautiful sunny morning although a little cold with the wind blowing off the sea. An apple for breakfast and I was ready to pack up and walk the five remaining miles to Brora, an easy walk along the coast past Dunroamin Castle.

Dunroamin was a castle out of a fairytale. I then walked through some mature woods and meadows next to the sea, glinting in the sun. I then walked down onto the hard sand as the tide was out for a couple of miles, the first time I had walked on a beach since Cornwall, so many weeks ago. I walked past a section of beach that would be rock pool heaven for Helen and my kids. Finally, I walked across the dunes into Brora, my favourite walk before breakfast of the entire trip.

It was Sunday morning and at 8 o’clock all the cafés were shut. However, a local man told me there was a shop that sold coffee and filled rolls, which was perfect. Two bacon rolls a caramel latte and a punnet of strawberries constituted an unusual but very fine meal. I was ready to walk on towards Helmsdale.

The first part of the walk to Helmsdale was essentially a 5 mile stroll along the beach and over the dunes .The weather was very fine with a light wind keeping me cool as I walked. I amused myself by looking out for seals, watching the gulls swooping here and there and taking photos. I also met Pink Hat Guy, as he refers to himself on his YouTube channel. He was on his way to Lands’ End. There’s nothing unusual in that except that he had already walked from Lands End to John O’Groats turned around and started walking back again. On the other end of the spectrum, I met a lovely couple from Derbyshire. Stuart was walking from Inverness to John O’Groats. He had mapped out all of his walks over the years, which started with the Pennine way when he was 16 years old. Once completed, this walk would mean he had a continuous, albeit eccentric route, from Land’s End to John O’Groats. It will have taken him 44 years to complete it. I congratulate them both.

Walking to the end of the beach section I came across a stream that was wide and deep enough to warrant taking my boots off and wading across. On a hot day, this was quite enjoyable. My feet certainly enjoyed the cold water. Seeing Stuart and his wife Helen approaching, I waited on the opposite bank as they came across as well, without incident. At that point, we all noticed a small footbridge no more than 50 yards away, which would’ve been quicker and easier, but not so much fun.

After this, the walk became more difficult. The path was narrow and overgrown with barbed wire on one side and a steep drop down to the rocky shore on the other. More worryingly my right leg was becoming quite painful. I had noticed a pain earlier in the day, but the path was exacerbating the problem. I had to slow down and rest more frequently. I could tell that the tendons in my leg were inflamed and applied ibuprofen gel which helped a bit. I wasn’t going to be at all happy if I had to abandon my walk within 70 miles of the finish. 

I soldiered on and eventually arrived at Helmsdale at 5 o’clock, two hours later than I thought I would. I wasn’t going to make it as far as Berriedale tonight, annoying as it has a hostel where you can camp owned by the man who designed the John O’Groats trail, who I would’ve liked to meet.

My leg felt a bit better after a rest, but I decided to cut my losses and walked another couple of miles to a nice camping spot overlooking the sea on top of the cliffs. I also decided to simplify things. I booked myself into a hotel in Lybster for the following night, a 22 mile walk which should be doable although the terrain on the trail was getting harder the further north I walked.

A hotel would mean enough clean clothes to see me to the end, a meal at the end of the day so I didn’t lose valuable walking time and a chance to get my blog up-to-date. Now all I had to do was get there.

Day Summary

Walking by the sea. Walking on the beach. Camping on the cliffs tops. Worried about my dodgy leg.