I woke early as normal at about 5:30. I messed around a bit, sorted out my feet (you don’t want to know the details) and made tea and pork and beans for breakfast. I set off at 8:30 following the directions from the End to End trail book that my sister bought me. I walked down country lanes through woodland. It was a very pleasant morning walk.
After a few miles, the road started to gradually climb until I could see Exmoor in front of me and Barnstaple behind. The south west coastal path with all that drama was now firmly behind me, replaced with a gentler landscape.
Soon after crossing into the Exmoor national park at the top of the hill before Challacombe I came across a mother and son on horseback who thought it hilarious when I asked to take their photo. 20 minutes walking further and I arrived at the Black Venus Inn which everybody I had met raved about. Roast beef and cherry soufflé for lunch. They were right to rave. I may be living like a hobo, but I’m dining like a king.
The Wi-Fi in the Black Venus was dodgy though which meant I couldn’t publish my blog as I’d planned. While I was eating there was a heavy downpour so I holed up in the pub until 3 o’clock when the rain eased. I didn’t have a clear plan for the rest of the day. If the weather had been fine I’d have walked onto the moors and found a way to make progress towards Luxborough where I was supposed to be at the end of the day. However this wasn’t going to happen. I was 10 miles behind my schedule at the beginning of the day and the enforced wait in the pub, very pleasant though it was, pushed me back further. I also wasn’t too keen on wild camping that night as further bad weather was forecast for the next day. So I decided to walk mainly along roads to a very pleasant remote and secluded campsite I had found.
So off I went, wet weather gear out for the first time, and made rapid progress arriving at Simons Bath about 4:30. There had been good views over South Regis Common and it was amazing how quickly the landscape changed, old stone walls covered in moss that looked older than I am, the moors rising gently in all directions.
Shortly before Simon’s Bath, I crossed into Somerset which surprised me . Cornwall had gone on forever, but Devon was over in a flash. At Simon’s Bath there was a pub and (what a surprise) I stopped. They had Wi-Fi so I was finally able to publish day four of my blog only a full week behind. I resolved again to publish every day for from then on. I had been dictating my blog to Google Notes as I went along so publishing from days eight onwards should be quicker. I resolved to try to write days 5 to 7 when I stopped that evening.
I arrived at the campsite at 7:30, another 20 miles walked . Somehow, despite walking a fair way every day I seem to be getting further and further behind. Must brush up my route planning skills. The campsite was all that I’d hoped for, a lush green field with trees and barely anybody else there. I put up my tent, made some food, Orzo Bolognese which was very good. I was tired so instead of writing my blog, I resolved to get up early, walk up into the high and wild areas of Exmoor and get my schedule back on track.
Day Summary
Avoided the rain, crossed into a new county, ate good food and amused the locals.
Discover more from Henry’s very long walk
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It looks stunning Henry but those people on the horses have the right idea. Maybe you can find one to help you along….. Oh and belated happy birthday.
Horses, tractors, skateboards etc. all ruled out of order unfortunately.
Who says you have to follow the rules?
I’m not a lover of rules and clipboards, but to walk LEJOG, it seems reasonable that you should use your own two feet
Hey Henry, fantastic to see your adventures! Keep the stories coming and the moral up. Amazing challenges, not a surprise coming from you
Thanks both. We should catch up once I’m done.Its been ages.
Thanks both. Really sorry I missed your leaving do. Hels loved it
The cherry soufflé looks delicious and I love the mossy wall
I will keep an eye out for more eye catching walls. The Pennines will have some, I’m sure.
Kind of remarkable that 11 days in and first time wet weather gear in need. The Coastal Path sounded brutal but at least it was dry!
I have been extraordinarily lucky with the weather. Yes, the SW path was brutal but also magnificent